It seems we’ve pissed someone off. Not really sure why but some folks who write about the whiskey business seem to have their panties in a wad.
In recent weeks, John Hansell of Malt Advocate, a well respected whiskey writer whose opinions I greatly admire, has written that craft distillers may be damaging the bourbon industry. In his most recent newsletter, Mr. Hansell writes: “The issue here is that these bourbons aren’t as mature and complex as the straight bourbons being put out by the larger distillers and it’s going to drag down the reputation of bourbon.”
Mr. Hansell refers to a story from Clay Risen, which appeared in The Atlantic, that claims “distilleries are cutting corners to speed up the process.” In this story, Mr. Risen has fond things to say about Garrison Brothers, but he then goes on with broad generalizations about all craft distilleries making whiskey.
It seems highly coincidental that at the same time these gentlemen are making these far reaching accusations, the Kentucky bourbon industry is rushing a bill through their state legislature that would give them a tax break for their aging barrel inventories.
Much of the fuss seems to focus on craft distilleries (and I guess we are one since we consider making fine bourbon a craft) that are using smaller barrels to age their bourbon. The authors argue that this is “cutting corners” and that the result is a green, raw, woody bourbon that does not have the same character and complexity of bourbon aged longer in larger barrels.
I suppose this is an interesting debate for those who are talking about it. For those of us actually making fine bourbon, the debate is ridiculous.
At Garrison Brothers, we have more than 1,500 small barrels filled with bourbon we made ourselves from scratch aging in our barns. We also have 10 gallon barrels, 20 gallon barrels, 53 gallon barrels, and 59 gallon barrels filled with our bourbon.
We hand-select the organic Texas corn, wheat and barley that we use. We grind the grain by hand. We cook our own mash. We ferment our own beer. My men and I distill our own bourbon, day in and day out, on three beautiful, reliable Vendome copper alembic pot stills. I dare say our White Dog is superior to any White Dog I’ve tasted in Kentucky.
But since they’ve opened the door, let’s talk about “cutting corners.” My small barrels cost me twice as much as a traditional 53 gallon Kentucky bourbon barrel. Most of my barrels hold only 15 gallons of bourbon. So, it costs me almost five times as much money to age my bourbon in small barrels as it does for the large commercial distilleries.
Could we use larger barrels? Sure. But we don’t. Why? Because the bourbon we’re aging in the small barrels tastes far superior to the bourbon aged in the larger ones. Does this sound to you like we’re “cutting corners”?
Recently, one of the largest Kentucky bourbon distilleries bought 100 small barrels from my cooperage to make their own small barrel bourbon. Does that seem odd? A distillery that’s been in business for decades tastes our bourbon and then decides to try make their own. Isn’t imitation the most sincere form of flattery?
So, debating the use of small barrels does not hold water. Just maybe the real debate should be about what we don’t do.
- WE DON’T RELEASE YOUNG, UNDER-AGE BOURBON. All Garrison Brothers today is straight bourbon whiskey, aged a minimum of two years. Soon, all Garrison Brothers will be three years old. Then four. Then five.
- We don’t buy whiskey from a large midwestern ethanol refinery and call it our own.
- We don’t use grain neutral spirits and then claim we made it ourselves.
- We don’t buy Canadian whiskey or Kentucky bourbon and then put a label on the bottle that says “MADE IN TEXAS.”
- We don’t add wood chips, flavoring, or wood spirals. We believe that is illegal, and it should be.
In the next few months, new “craft” whiskies will flood Texas liquor stores. From the outside, the bottles will appear to look like bourbon. Many may be altering their barrels to try to make the distillate inside taste like bourbon. As I understand it, these “whiskies” are aged 6 or 9 months in used bourbon barrels.
These bottles will say “Texas Whiskey” or “Made in Texas”, probably in big, bold print, even though the makers know good and well that it was actually distilled somewhere else.
The liquid inside these bottles is NOT bourbon. If anything should piss off bourbon writers — who claim a desire to preserve and protect America’s native spirit – this should be it. It makes me mad as hell.
Interestingly, a few weeks ago I invited Mr. Hansell down to Texas, at my expense, to learn the truth about small barrel aging. I wanted him to try our three-year old directly from small barrels and large barrels so he could taste firsthand that the bourbon has indeed gone through the extraction, absorption and esterification phases. I wanted him to taste the character and complexity that can only come from small barrel aging. He declined my invitation.
So, I’m going to try it again and this time I’ll put my money where my mouth is:
Mr. Hansell and Mr. Risen, please come visit us at Garrison Brothers Distillery and try our bourbon. While you are here, we will offer you a taste of all three previous releases of Garrison Brothers and the forthcoming November release. We’ll also share some of our favorites from Kentucky: George T. Stagg, Pappy Van Winkle 23, Old Drum, W.L. Weller 12, and Makers. We’ll provide these samples blind and ask you to choose your two favorites.
If you DON’T select my bourbon as one of your top two favorites, I will donate $500 to the charity of your choice.
Come visit us here in Hye. Then be the judge of whether our distillery might be “damaging the reputation of bourbon.” Around here, bourbon is sacred and we will fight like hell to defend it.
Dan you know I love your bourbon. Great bourbon can be made in 15 gallons barrels and it can also be made in 53 gallon barrels. If you like 15 gallon barrel size the best, the use that. Barrel size is not going to “drag down the reputation of bourbon”. But, using used cooperage, GNS , other additives, and under aging could. We need to educate consumers on definition of Straight Bourbon and make sure this is what they buy.
Wade,
We truly appreciate your support, and even more so, your knowledge. Educating people about the authenticity of good bourbon is important. Otherwise it becomes a commodity like vodka. It will be an expensive, uphill battle. We need help from our friends in Kentucky.
Dan, keep up the good work. Your hard work that produces a quality product will continue to pay off more. Your website and links to your website is the way I discovered you and other people at my tour discovered you. A website that is updated regularly will be great marking for you.
Get em Dan. We got your back. Nothing but the best.
You know you must be doing something right if it’s pissing people off.
When I visted, back last Feb., I had the opportunity to taste a one year old bourbon. Ii was as good or better than any 3 or 4 yearr old i’ve had. Keep up the excellent work.
As they say, the proof is in the pudding… though in this case, the proof is in the bottle. Moving to the smaller barrels may seem to some like a “short cut”, but it actually makes sense and obviously works – per gallon, you’re actually getting more surface-area contact with the wood than in the bigger barrels – how can that be a bad thing!? And, as you pointed out, this is costing you a fortune — how could it be a “short cut” if you’re spending 5x as much to accomplish what the Kentucky guys are doing?
I say keep up the great work!
Dan, my dad has always been fond of telling me “if they aren’t pissed at you, then you ain’t doing it right.” You are clearly doing it right. Industry types from Kentucky seem to think they hold a patent on bourbon in Kentucky and the thought of someone down in Texas doing it better offends their sensibilities…well to hell with them. The care and attention to detail y’all take in the making of your bourbon comes through. Thank you for your hard work and great bourbon…my wife and I are counting the days until the November release.
Dan is there a email address for Mr.Hansell and Mr. Risen that we might get to help encouage these two to come visit and see for themselves. I think if we all asked them nicely to accept the challenge, they might just do so.
There is no competition to Garrison Brothers. The three years of aging in Texas gives a superior taste to GB Straight Bourbon than any three years of Kentucky aging. It’s not a brag, it’s science.
Maker’s Mark is good stuff. It’s the best mass market straight bourbon I’ve tasted. But it’s not Garrison Brothers and the two are not in the same class. A bottle of Maker’s Mark from 1997 will taste like one from 2007. They strive for a consistent flavor.
Garrison Brothers is consistently good, but each year has subtle variations that come from the corn itself. It’s not going to be the same from bottling to bottling. Maybe it’s my uneducated palate, but I sure as shootin’ taste differences. I can’t explain it in “notes” and “hints”. I know it by “That’s good.” and “That’s DAMN good!”
Garrison Brothers is always good to DAMN good. Makers Mark is just good.
That’s my two cents worth and as long as I have two cents I’m going to buy as much Garrison Brothers as I can each bottling.
I can pass on Maker’s Mark. It will always be there. Garrison Brothers is more elusive and special.
use to be “Integrity” meant something in the USA. I sure as hell hope we never loose what it means here. I trust what you say is true about your bourbon until proven differently,so not to be to harsh why dont you just tell him “to shove his opinion up his $%#@” yours truly a guy who cant get it in Dallas.I mean your bourbon.
I have yet to have the joy of tasting your bourbon – the hazards of living in deep East Texas and not leaving the farm.
Kudos for an excellent article. I remember similar arguments being made when micro breweries were becoming very popular and the large breweries were obviously nervous. I think that is the same situation here.
Your posting also brings up another issue – what are the standards for “made in Texas” and “Texas whiskies” ? Just like the organic movement has become so watered down because everything NOT organic is labeled as such, I do not want what should be a prideful standard of Made In Texas and Texas whiskey to become just more watered down hype.
If there is anyone we should be telling it on the mountain to, please let us know.
Dear Dan — Thanks for the response. For what it’s worth, we’re on the same page. I don’t have a problem with small barrels themselves, and I don’t think using them in itself constitutes “cutting corners.” Like Wade says above, use whatever works for you. What bothers me is that some people — present company excluded — think that small barrels allow them to make bourbon faster. So you see folks peddling six-month-old whiskey and pretending it’s the same thing as, well, Garrison Bros.
Meanwhile, I’ll take you up on that offer someday.
I’m an expat living in NY (we are having our own little craft distiller brouhaha as well). I have asked my brother to get some of your stuff for me in November if at all possible but that’s besides the point. I am the sports director of a NYC store and am very supportive of the small guys and are damn proud of you for taking a stand against the big guys. It worked in the wine industry why not Bourbon?
I try my best to educate every person I meet on what it means for a whiskey to be called bourbon. Eventhough I live in KY and I am proud of KY bourbon I like making sure that bourbon is a distinctly American thing and that everyone can be proud of it. I am excited to see other states putting out bourbons. It makes me feel like maybe I could start my own distillery. I have yet to try Garrisons but want to very much and it hasnt been for the lack of trying to get someone in Texas to bring some home to me in KY. Keep up the great work. I know once I get a sip it will be great.
I use to drink Wild Turkey and think it was good whiskey but in the past 8 or 9 years all I have drunk is small batch whiskeys and Garrison Brothers is one of the best I have tasted. Are there a lot more distrillers than there was 9 years ago? Heck yeah, there are a lot more than there was 5 years ago. But I think they make the bourbon business better and more competitive and make the big distriller work harder to make as good a whiskey as the small batch guys, like Garrison Brothers. Just like the micro brew business is putting a strain on Budwiser sales, the small batch distillers are taking business away from the large and I will gladly pay a bit more for a higher quality bourbon! Life is too short to drink bad whiskey!
Dan,
When I first saw your Texas Bourbon in a store in Austin, I was stunned by the relatively high price. I just couldn’t see how a two year old bourbon could be worth what you were asking.
A couple of months later I happened to be in Blanco and being so close to Hye, I drove by to see for myself what was going on.
I was greated by Stephanie who ushered me into tor aging barn.
I was amazed to see how small your barrels were.
Stephanie explained that smaller barrels allowed a higher wood to whiskey ratio and that by aging in an open air barn allowed the barrels to swell & contract more than if the barrels were in a cellar.
Stephanie then offered me a taste & I was a convert.
The sweet complexity & smoothness was unlike any bourbon I had ever tasted. I picked up a bottle at the liquor store in Hye, went home and made a comparison with the bourbons I had on hand.
To be candid, your Texas Bourbon made Makers Mark taste like shoe polish & was even better than my favorite, Blanton’s Sugar Barrel Bourbon. It is hands down better than the Woodford Reserve also in my liquor closet.
IMHO, Garrison Brothers Texas Bourbon is simply the best bourbon I’ve tasted.
Single Malt Scotches have historically been my favorite distillate. Until I tasted your bourbon.
The only problem I’ve encountered is the extremely limited supply.
Keep up the excellent work!!
Looking forward to the three, four & five year olds when available.
Sincerely,
Chuck Foote
Austin
As an “award winning professional bottler”, might I suggest a way to educate the consumers is to write articles defining Straight Bourbon …. and the best way to consume Straight Bourbon … for submission to periodical publications. I don’t know the target market demographic for Straight Bourbon (you should) but possible publications might include Men’s Journal and Cosmopolitan. Each one written to the periodicals target market. Each one with a slightly different slant. Besides, they pay for published submissions and that sounds like a good way to fund another party at the Distillery
That calls for a taste: one part glass, rinsed with branch water and two parts Straight Bourbon. Cheers!
When I visted, back last Feb., I had the opportunity to taste a one year old bourbon. Ii was as good or better than any 3 or 4 yearr old i’ve had. Keep up the excellent work.
Bully for you, Dan! Your arguments are cogent. I hope Mr. Hansell accepts your invitation. Education is indeed the key. I look forward to visiting the distillery and will encourage my friends in Texas to do the same.
Saw a bumper sticker on the way to Fredericksburg Saturday (8/6) and googled your distillery. Stopped by with friends but we had just missed the tour and at 100 degrees plus, my guests were melting. Bought 2 (1 for me 1 for my dad) bottles on the way out of Hye. Got a tshirt in Fredericksburg. Good luck to your Bourbon making endeavor.
I sure hpe that some of your November release will end up in Bandera. I asked at both of our liquor stores for your last release, and only one of them even knew what I was talking about. Have made it out as far as your place in Hye, and came by, but was to late in the day, and you were closed. Now hubby is interested, so will be making another trip, especially to drop in. How big is your “Whiskey (dog)” doing? His Papa Whiskey fathered 9 more pups last year, and I got to keep one, and his name is MAC. See you soon.
Sounds to like to me we here in Texas need to have our Legislature pass a law making it illegal to label anything “made in Texas” that ain’t!
Dan, I’ve got a real problem with your bourbon. It’s not lasting as long as I want it to. All kidding aside, I’m quite happy to say that Garrison Brothers has replaced all, even Pappy, as my go to.
You tell ‘em, Dan. Defend the purity of the craft.
I have never tried your bourbon, but I look forward to tasting it with the satisfaction that it is hand-made, Texas-bred, whiskey-bent, and heaven-bound. I had a hard time swallowing Mr. Hansell’s repudiation of craft distilling. But it looks like you’ve given him a stout answer and I hope that he takes you up on your offer. Makes me proud to be a Texan, makes me proud to be a whiskey drinker.
Dan, not to worry. The imitators will come and go as usual. The critics are only there out of jealousy because they cannot produce what you have done. Your bourbon WILL stand not only the test of time but the test of quality, BAR NONE. You have all the support you need right here in Texas, and its growth that will prove that. Your devotee, TexasJack
I don’t drink a lot of bourbon; but my wife and I toured your facility when we were in Stonewall to buy peaches. I must say that I was really impressed with your new upgraded operation. I am not an expert on distilleries; but do have a degree in Industrial Technology, and all of your processes made a lot of sense to me. My son who lives in Tuscaloosa & considers himself to be an expert on bourbons, was just as impressed with the taste as I was. Don’t worry about the Big Boys because I think they are jealous of your bourbon. Keep up the good work. You have a first class operation & product.
I read the Risen and Hansell articles, and neither seems to be indicting the small-barrel, craft whiskey process per se. Rather, I think both writers are properly raising a warning flag to consumers: just because it’s “craft” doesn’t mean it’s “quality.”
Hansell, in particular, makes it clear that his observations are completely subjective. He admits that there’s no empirical evidence for his belief that small-barrel whiskeys are “woody” and “green.”
I’ll be interested to see if either accepts your challenge.
I think the Tax and Trade Bureau, which regulates whiskey production through their standards of identity, should adopt stronger standards for terroir and regionality. I would guess that the Kentucky bourbon distillers would agree and support such an initiative. On the side, I’m going to start contacting those I know there and get their thoughts.
Clay,
You are welcome here any time. The only offense I took with your story is that it did not point out the craft distillers who are the exceptions and there are many, like us, who are taking it on the chin financially today, so that some day i the future we’ll have a great straight bourbon. You have now and I truly appreciate it.
Wow! What a nice note. Thanks.
Hi Linda,
The big lug’s laying on the floor beside me. Topped out a happy, healthy 55 pounds. We ARE distributed in Bandera. The stores just have to order it from Republic.
That would be nice. Perhaps we need to contact Ag Commisioner Staples. There are already standards for what constitutes Texas made wine.
Dan, I agree 100% with you. It is as if they are protecting the the big guys that are advertising with the mag rather than encouraging small enterpreneurs trying to produce a good quality product. That is what America is all about. Viva Texas!!
Again, I have great respect for John Hansell and am a cover-to-cover Malt Advocate reader. It was the broad generalizations that all craft distillers might be damaging bourbon’s reputation, without identifying the exceptions, that put me off.
Thanks for speaking up, Dan. The size of the barrels isn’t the point in craft distilling. There are so many other more important factors that contribute to the quality of whiskey. Your product is proof of that. Keep up the good work!
Great post, Dan.
The Atlantic article has definitely sparked a lot of heated debate among industry folk and enthusiasts alike. I wonder how inflamed people would be if the title hadn’t framed the whole thing as a “loom”{ing} “crisis.” That did strike me as a bit dramatic and sensationalistic. As a craft distiller, that kind of phrasing has to get a rise out of you. Use of words such as “trick” and phrases like “cutting corners” totally reinforces that negative tone. Risen wrote another article recently called “The Microdistilling Myth.” Between the two, you have to wonder if there is something behind all that negativity.
After reading the whole thing, I think you could title it “To Compete with Large Manufacturers, Craft Distillers Innovate with Mixed Results.” That would be more factual, but certainly wouldn’t have gotten the same reaction out of me…and maybe that’s the whole point.
Well said.
John can be reached through the Malt Advocate blog. Not sure he’d like me passing along his email address. Clay Risen has posted here.
Anyone who wants to can reach me at risenc@gmail.com. Just to make it clear, so I don’t get a flood of negative emails, I believe – rather, I know – Garrison Bros. is one of the craft distilleries out there doing it right. There are others like them, but there are also a lot of stinkers. That whole list of things that Dan said Garrison Bros. doesn’t do? Well, people do that. The whole point of my piece was to say, I don’t want it to get to where people hear “craft distillery” and they think “cutting corners,” because that would be unfair to folks like these.
Thanks for the post Clay. The real issue here, at least for me, is preserving and protecting straight bourbon. It is the distilled spirit of the United States and should never become a commodity like vodka. Let’s keep it authentic. Let’s keep it real. If someone wants to buy the crap, then have at it.
For more information about straight bourbon, visit http://www.straightbourbon.com
I’m an ole southern boy that loves to make tamales. The ones I make are better than you can buy at the Tex/Mex cafes in Austin. It is easy for me to understand how bourbon made in Texas can be better than bourbon made in Kentucky. I have you bourbon in my collection and intend to keep adding to it when I visit my Daughter in Austin. Loved touring you ranch last sprint.
P. S. I forgot to mention I am from ALABAMA.
I have somebody that is visiting Texas in March and is stopping at my house on their way back to MA to purchase an item from me. I told her why she is in TX I would like for her to bring me back a bottle of whiskey TX is home to. A good bottle if you know what I mean. Any ideas? Mike
Well, yeah.
Michael, may I suggest multiple bottles of Garrison? It’s a lot less expensive than the price of an airline ticket back to Texas when you realize what you’ve been missing and are needing another bottle! It’s that good. Dan’s got this whiskey making thing down.
C Ray